Dominik Mueller

As Spring announced itself with a few days of sunshine and warmer temperatures, I spent a nice afternoon in Hattenheim in the Rheingau region, where I attended a Pio Cesare masterclass tasting of seven wines. The tasting was part of this year's Rheingau Gourmet & Wein Festival at the Hotel Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim-Eltville.

Pio Cesare

My personal experience with wines from Piedmont is still relatively limited at this point. I wasn't familiar with the wines of Pio Cesare going into the tasting, although they're a household name in the region and respected worldwide for their Barolos in particular. That's why I was really looking forward to the tasting, to get to know both the region and the producer better. Pio Cesare was founded by entrepreneur Cesare Pio in the town of Alba in 1881. They're still family-run, in the fifth generation today, and cultivate around 70 hectares of vineyards. Although best-known for their Nebbiolos, they produce quite a respectable Chardonnay, too, as I report in my tasting notes below.

Pio Cesare tasting: One Langhe Chardonnay, four Barolos, one Barbaresco, and one Vermouth

2022 Pio Cesare Chardonnay Piodilei

What a start to this tasting! Pale straw yellow colour. The bouquet initially features white and yellow fruits like lemon and peach, followed by floral notes of white blossoms. Strong, well-integrated secondary aromas include buttery notes, nuts, and lightly toasted brioche. Over time, it develops reductive flint stone notes. On the palate, it's medium-bodied with medium acidity, fresh and balanced, neither heavy nor thin. Flavours of lemon, ripe peach, and pineapple complement a creamy mouthfeel, offering complexity and depth.

2020 Pio Cesare Barolo Pio

Pale ruby colour. The bouquet is initially restrained, featuring ripe red fruit — red cherry and plum — along with earthy notes and tar. On the palate, it's quite tannic but not harsh, still young. Flavours of ripe cherry and plum are present, with a hint of rose hip. The wine needed time to open up but never fully revealed itself. It became softer over time, though the fruit remained overshadowed by its compact structure. Further ageing is needed for it to reach its full potential.

2020 Pio Cesare Barbaresco Pio

Light ruby colour. The bouquet features red fruit and roses, with a bright, fragrant, and elegant profile. Medium intensity and more accessible than the Barolo Pio. Youthful, it feels astringent on the palate, but cherry, strawberry, and raspberry flavours come through. Good length. It will benefit from further ageing but can be enjoyed earlier than the Barolo.

2016 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato

Medium ruby colour. Typical Nebbiolo aromas: red cherry, redcurrant, strawberry. Deep and floral with rose petals and violets. Not much in terms of earth and leather just yet, I found this still relatively youthful, too. Full-bodied palate with strong tannins and good acidity. Intense, with brilliant red fruit, salty and chalky notes. Quite mineral. Long finish. A significant improvement over the classic "Pio" Barolo. This wine has great ageing potential and is currently too young to show its full complexity.

2017 Pio Cesare Barolo Mosconi

Light ruby colour. The bouquet is less powerful than the Barolo Ornato's but more refined and elegant, featuring brilliant red cherry, red berries, and juicy plum, with some wet stones. High in tannins, but they are well-integrated, making the wine approachable. First hints of leather. Solid length. Very good.

2015 Pio Cesare Barolo Pio

Ruby red with brick red towards the rim. The nose offers attractive cherry fruit, earthy and leathery notes, and some tar. Medium-bodied with still quite tannic palate. Pretty fruit, though lacking depth and complexity. Very good, but I don't think the wine will gain from further cellaring.

NV Pio Cesare Vermouth di Torino

My first Vermouth in many years. Deep golden yellow to amber colour. Aromas of orange peel, blood orange, herbs, and medicinal notes make it attractive and inviting. The taste confirms these aromas, adding honey and candied oranges. Slightly bitter finish. This is both fun and complex, making it a wonderful aperitif!