2022 Alexander Laible Grauer Burgunder *** SL

The “SL” stands for “Selektion Laible”. Alexander Laible uses the three stars *** to denote his highest-quality wines, which benefit from reduced yields and a thorough selection of healthy grapes. (Alexander Laible is not to be confused with Andreas Laible, whose winery is also based in Durbach but is a member of the VDP.)

Tasting note

Clear appearance. Pale golden yellow to salmon pink in colour. The nose is clean and of medium intensity. It is easy to distinguish the primary fruit aromas: Cantaloupe melon, peach, apple, pear and grapefruit. On the palate, the pinot gris is dry. Typical of the varietal, acidity is on the lower side. I get apple and citrus fruit. It’s pretty primary. Alcohol is medium at 13%. The body and flavour intensity are both medium, as is the finish, which is carried by notes of grapefruit. The Grauer Burgunder *** SL is a good wine for lovers of pinot gris — not high in acidity but fresh and fruity. Cellaring potential is limited, I’d drink it through 2025. DM87.

2022 Alexander Laible Grauer Burgunder *** SL

2020 Friedrich Becker Grauer Burgunder

EN: Pinot Gris from vines 15 to 35 years old. The wine is clear in the glass, with a golden to light pink salmon colour. Obviously, the grape juice was left on the skins for a few days before being drained. On the nose, citrus, ripe stone fruit and a nutty sweetness that suggests the wine was partially aged in wooden barrels. Roasted almond or caramel rather than vanilla, though. Juicy mouthfeel with medium body. Grapefruit dominates the palate with a lively acidity that lingers long in the mouth and a slight bitterness. Overall, a good Pinot Gris that I liked for its strong acidity that made it neither too pleasing nor too fat. Not a wine to store, but to drink today. DM87.

DE: Grauburgunder von 15 bis 35 Jahre alten Rebstöcken. Der Wein ist klar im Glas und hat eine goldene bis leicht rosafarbene Lachsfarbe. Offensichtlich wurde der Traubensaft einige Tage auf den Schalen belassen, bevor er abgezogen wurde. In der Nase Zitrusfrüchte, reifes Steinobst und eine nussige Süße, die darauf schließen lässt, dass der Wein teilweise in Holzfässern gelagert wurde. Allerdings eher geröstete Mandeln oder Karamell als Vanille. Saftiges Mundgefühl mit mittlerem Körper. Am Gaumen dominiert die Grapefruit mit einer lebendigen Säure, die lange im Mund verweilt, und einer leichten Bitterkeit. Insgesamt ein guter Grauburgunder, der mir aufgrund seiner kräftigen Säure gefällt, die ihn weder zu gefällig noch zu fett macht. Kein Wein zum Lagern, sondern zum heute Trinken. DM87.

2020 Friedrich Becker Grauer Burgunder