Dominik Mueller

The third in the trilogy of hot years 2018-20. Obviously, this is also the Covid-19 vintage. The lockdowns and restrictions posed challenges here and there throughout the year, but overall the weather remained the main factor for the vignerons, as always. Wet and mild winter, good for filling up the groundwater table after the previous year's warm and dry summer. Spring frost was a worry in Chablis particularly, but damages were limited. The weather was mostly warm and dry from then on. Flowering got under way relatively early in April and growth was fast. During summer, drought was a constant risk but the dry conditions helped curtail diseases in the vines. Luckily, temperatures didn't reach the extremes seen in 2003 and there were enough cool nights to ensure a certain level of freshness in the wines. Early pickers started harvesting in mid August, though picking got truly under way in late August.

For Pinot Noir, which ripened quickly come harvest time, there was a decision to be made between harvesting early to ensure lower sugar levels at the risk of not reaching perfect phenolic ripeness, and, on the other hand, waiting a few days longer to reach full ripeness but risk more weight and less balance in the red wines. Most established producers got their decisions right, resulting in concentrated but not heavy Pinots. The concentration of aromatics was also helped by the lower yield due to some losses throughout the hot growth season.

For the white wines, the quality is almost uniformly very good. The yield was high in volume. The Chardonnays tend to be structured with good freshness and aromatics. The higher qualities should be good for cellaring some years.

White grape variety found predominantly in Burgundy, France, although Aligoté is also grown in other parts of the world, particularly in Eastern Europe. While the global vineyard area planted with Aligoté has been declining, the variety has been growing in popularity lately as a new generation of vignerons in Burgundy is taking the variety more seriously. Typically dry, crisp and fresh in style, and made to be drunk young. Good Aligotés can show considerable length, too. Moreover, with its naturally high acidity, which it contains even until later ripening stages, it is a welcome alternative during times of global warming.

Regional appellation in Burgundy for white wines made out of 100% Aligoté. Before the turn of the millennium, it was permitted to use up to 15% Chardonnay in Bourgogne Aligoté wines.