Today I am tasting a white wine cuvée from a winery I had not heard of before: the 2020 Chardonnay & Weißer Burgunder “vom Kalkstein” from the Karl-Hermann Milch winery in Monsheim, Rheinhessen. The Milch winery is thus not far from the probably more prominent town of Flörsheim-Dalsheim, where the Klaus Peter Keller winery and the Raumland sparkling wine house are based.
The wine is clear with a light yellow colour. Immediately after opening it seemed a bit restrained, on the second day I find more aromas. On the nose, light fruits, stone fruits. Also a little vanilla and a touch of honey. Unfortunately, there is also a small, pungent note. This makes the cuvée seem slightly alcoholic. 2020 was a hot year in Germany, is that the reason? The palate is also a little “warm”, but balanced with a medium acidity of lemons and crunchy stone fruit. So this entry-level wine from the Milch winery’s surprisingly lush range is not completely rounded, but still good to drink.
Drink through 2024.
Tasted by Dominik Müller on Monday, 18 September 2023.
84Wines that have a DM84 to DM86 rating are average on a fine wine level. That means the wines have been produced well, they have no apparent flaws or big imbalances that would put me off. On the other hand, they lack features that make them stand out in a positive way, such as a complex flavour profile or a very elegant tannin structure. Put differently, if offered a glass, I will gladly drink it. I might even have another one. Would I buy a bottle from this category for my own cellar? I might, yes. For example, wines with a DM84 to DM86 rating are usually not too demanding, so they can be a good fit for guests who are beginners to fine wine or very casual drinkers. In the WSET world, wines with a DM84 rating will be at the upper end of a 1.0 WSET score./ 100
1.5Wines with a 1.5 WSET rating are in between 'average' and 'good' in the WSET scoring system, where we consider balance (B), intensity (I), length (L) and complexity (C). In terms of my personal rating system, wines with a WSET score of 1.5 usually get around 85 to 86 DM points./ 4.0
2Wines with a rating of 2 stars are well-made and of average quality relative to their peer group. Perfectly enjoyable and certainly not disappointing./ 5
Jasper Morris of InsideBurgundy.com inspired me to use his 'Five Star Scale' in my tasting notes, too. The limitation of the standard 100-point scale is that in certain appellation hierarchies, such as Burgundy village versus premier cru, the lower-end wines will typically score less than the wines higher up the hierarchy. The five star scale therefore wants to compare a wine to its peers from the same category. It allows for very well-made wines to stand out.
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