In eager anticipation of our upcoming Burgundy trip, I couldn’t wait and decided to “warm up” by opening a bottle of Chardonnay from my cellar. I picked a rather down-to-earth representation, the 2020 Bourgogne Blanc by Maison Louis Latour, one of the bigger players in the region.
The vintage 2020 closed out the 2018-20 trio of hot years in Europe. However, unlike 2019, temperatures didn’t go extreme for the most part. There were some cool nights and there was enough rainfall to produce healthy and juicy grapes by picking season. I’m not so sure the grapes for this wine were picked at the right time though. While the official vintage report by Louis Latour states they started harvesting on 19 August already, I still get plenty of ripe aromas, slightly on the flabby side.
On the smell, I get a floral and buttery impression. This dominates the stony minerality and freshness that I would have preferred, although there are hints of lemon alongside the riper fruit notes of apricot and white fruits.
In the mouth, everything is “medium”, it seems. It is positive that the wine is not too broad-shouldered, which could happen in a warm year like 2020. On the other hand, the flavours are a bit short-lived, making this Bourgogne Blanc seem watered down. I know this is an entry-level wine. Still, I would have expected just a little more profile from a well-known Grand Cru producer like Maison Louis Latour.
Drink through 2025.
Tasted by Dominik Müller on Monday, 2 October 2023.
Flawed? | no | |
DM: |
5Wines with a DM5 to DM8 rating are good wines. They are pure and balanced. They also tend to show some character in the form of the typicity of the grape variety or the region. / 20 ("good") |
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Stars: |
2Wines with a rating of 2 stars are well-made and of average quality relative to their peer group. Perfectly enjoyable and certainly not disappointing. / 5 |
Vintage: |
2020 The third in the trilogy of hot years 2018-20. Obviously, this is also the Covid-19 vintage. The lockdowns and restrictions posed challenges here and there throughout the year, but overall the weather remained the main factor for the vignerons, as always. Wet and mild winter, good for filling up the groundwater table after the previous year's warm and dry summer. Spring frost was a worry in Chablis particularly, but damages were limited. The weather was mostly warm and dry from then on. Flowering got under way relatively early in April and growth was fast. During summer, drought was a constant risk but the dry conditions helped curtail diseases in the vines. Luckily, temperatures didn't reach the extremes seen in 2003 and there were enough cool nights to ensure a certain level of freshness in the wines. Early pickers started harvesting in mid August, though picking got truly under way in late August. For Pinot Noir, which ripened quickly come harvest time, there was a decision to be made between harvesting early to ensure lower sugar levels at the risk of not reaching perfect phenolic ripeness, and, on the other hand, waiting a few days longer to reach full ripeness but risk more weight and less balance in the red wines. Most established producers got their decisions right, resulting in concentrated but not heavy Pinots. The concentration of aromatics was also helped by the lower yield due to some losses throughout the hot growth season. For the white wines, the quality is almost uniformly very good. The yield was high in volume. The Chardonnays tend to be structured with good freshness and aromatics. The higher qualities should be good for cellaring some years. |
Colour: | white |
Style: | still (dry) |
Assemblage: | no |
Grape variety: | Chardonnay |
For assemblages, the main grape variety is shown. | |
Producer: | Louis Latour |
Country: | France |
Region: | Burgundy |
Subregion: | n/a |
Appellation: | Bourgogne AOC |
Vineyard: | n/a |
More details on this wine. | |
View this wine on CellarTracker. |