For this year’s Christmas, I picked four wines to pair with a down to earth broth fondue. For aperitif, we started with a champagne by Henri Giraud. From there we went to Burgundy, then Bordeaux, and ended up at the Saar in Germany. Originally, I’d chosen a 1996 Sauternes to wrap things up but we decided to keep that bottle for another time. 2026 Christmas, perhaps?
From a perfect bottle with good, clean cork. Medium ruby red with no apparent age notes whatsoever. On the nose, plenty of primary aromas of dark and red berries, blackcurrant, black cherry, red plum. There are also aromas of vanilla and cedarwood. Leather, too, hinting at the time spent in bottle and giving the wine some complexity. In the mouth, alcohol is medium, as are the tannins at this point. Acidity is still high, however, which should provide enough structure for more development in future. The finish is dry and medium in length. Really good Bordeaux red wine with a rather balanced mix of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which is a little more pronounced in this vintage. Still younger than expected, this Citran should easily keep for another five to ten years, depending on cellar conditions.
Drink through 2028.
Tasted by Dominik Müller on Sunday, 24 December 2023.
92Wines with a rating of DM91 to DM93 are exceptionally good. These are wines that are not just well-made but which have a character of their own that makes them stand out. These wines offer a level of complexity that we can spend a long time with if we want to. In WSET terms, wines with a DM92 rating tend to be at the upper end of a 3.0 WSET score./ 100
3.0Wines with a 3.0 WSET rating are clearly 'very good' wines according to the WSET scoring system, where we consider balance (B), intensity (I), length (L) and complexity (C). In terms of my personal rating system, wines with a WSET score of 3.0 usually get 91 to 92 DM points./ 4.0
4Wines with a rating of 4 stars are excellent wines in their category. They are almost at the top of their peer group in terms of quality./ 5
Jasper Morris of InsideBurgundy.com inspired me to use his 'Five Star Scale' in my tasting notes, too. The limitation of the standard 100-point scale is that in certain appellation hierarchies, such as Burgundy village versus premier cru, the lower-end wines will typically score less than the wines higher up the hierarchy. The five star scale therefore wants to compare a wine to its peers from the same category. It allows for very well-made wines to stand out.
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