Posted on Monday, 9 March 2026
Last weekend, I spent an afternoon in Hattenheim in the Rheingau to attend a masterclass on the estates represented by the Belle-Vite association, held as part of the renowned Rheingau Gourmet & Wine Festival. In the finest spring weather, I first enjoyed the waterfront before being handed an espresso through the window of the excellent Zum Krug restaurant in the village centre, which I savoured at the local regulars' table outside. My thanks go to the waitress who paused her evening service preparations to rescue my flagging energy and save the rest of my afternoon.
Espresso at Zum Krug in Hattenheim
The masterclass was once again held at the Georg Müller Stiftung this year. Our moderator for the session was Giuseppe Lauria from the Fine Wine Guide, formerly the editor-in-chief of both the German WeinWisser and Gault Millau. Also in attendance were representatives from the four estates, who each gave a brief introduction to their wines.
The spectacular line-up of the Super Tuscans masterclass
We tasted the wines in four flights of two, each pairing the current 2022 or 2023 vintage with the 2016. As I shall describe, it was a highly illuminating experience!
We began the afternoon with Saffredi, a wine often celebrated for its poise. Comparing the two vintages was a lesson in how a decade can transform a wine's very soul.
This is a wine still very much in its infancy. It leads with a wealth of dark fruit, typical of a warmer year, but it currently feels somewhat guarded. The structure is quite imposing, with firm tannins that dominate the palate for now. It is a powerful wine that clearly needs a few more years in the cellar to find its harmony and settle into its skin.
What a contrast. The 2016 is wonderfully fresh and remarkably precise. It carries an air of "cool" elegance, with notes of mint and fine tobacco woven through the dark fruit. On the palate, it feels polished and sophisticated, moving with a linear grace. It isn't a wine that tries to overwhelm you with weight; instead, it impresses with its technical perfection and architectural beauty.
The second flight shifted our focus to the "soul" of Merlot, with two wines that felt deeply connected to the earth.
This is a bold and energetic young wine. It leads with an earthy, spicy character—think of fresh plums, dark chocolate, and a touch of smoky black pepper. It has a certain assertive quality to it; it’s a bit rustic and punchy at this stage, with firm tannins that give it a very different, perhaps less polished, energy than the icons of the past. It's a wine that isn't afraid to show its strength early on.
In contrast, the 2016 is a masterclass in elegance. It feels incredibly "fleshy" and deep, with an intriguing bouquet that moves from dark berries to floral notes like lavender and even a hint of savoury clove. On the palate, it is remarkably soft and balanced. It manages to be intense and "bloody" in its depth while remaining perfectly sophisticated. This is a wine that feels complete, showing a remarkable harmony between its fruit and its earthy, leathery undertones.
The third flight brought us to one of the true legends of Italian Merlot. These two wines showed a fascinating contrast between youthful radiance and the sheer power of a matured masterpiece.
This is a wine that seems to positively radiate. It’s surprisingly soft and approachable for such a young Merlot, showing delicate notes of rosehip and fresh red berries alongside a touch of polished vanilla. It draws you in with a velvety texture and immense energy at its core. While it perhaps hasn't yet found the ultimate depth of its older brother, it is an incredibly inviting and "stellar" performance that is already a joy to taste.
This was a wine that compelled us to pause. It has a commanding presence—not because it is loud, but because of its incredible class and depth. It feels more "ethereal" and elegant even than the 2023, with a radiant dark fruit profile of blackcurrant and blueberry. On the palate, it reveals its massive backbone; it is still surprisingly grippy and firm, as if it is only just beginning its long journey. This is a world-class wine built for eternity.
We concluded the tasting with Picconero, illustrating how a change in a wine's composition can fundamentally alter its personality.
Now produced as a 100% Merlot, the 2022 is bright and kernig, full of honest red fruit charm and a touch of liquorice. It is adstringent and youthful, a very good wine that focuses on the purity of the variety. While it is an excellent bottle in its own right, it feels like a more singular, modern interpretation of the estate's terroir.
To finish on this was pure joy. In 2016, the wine still included Cabernet Franc, and that addition makes it sing. It is wonderfully savoury, bursting with notes of grilled meat, black olives, and charred peppers. There is a richness here—figs and espresso—supported by firm tannins that have started to round out beautifully. It was the perfect example of how the "old" blend could achieve a complex, almost culinary depth.
As the masterclass drew to a close, my takeaway was clear: the 2016 vintage is a Tuscan benchmark of structure and backbone. In many ways, these wines were reminiscent of the best left- or right-bank Bordeaux, even surpassing them on occassion. The 2016 Redigaffi, gosh, to have tasted such a heaven-like wine was pure joy. The price, alas, should not be discussed, perhaps, though it is more than justified, in my opinion. The 2016 Picconero is affordable by comparison and a true surprise - contender for wine of the evening alongside both Redigaffis. If the Saffredis may have felt a little bit like a let-down, the 2022 in particular, that was likely down to bad timing, with this wine displaying the potential for greatness some years down the road.
A spectacular tasting, as you can surely tell by my high (though honest and disciplined!) ratings. I will make sure to be back in Hattenheim in March next year again. I cannot wait for the 2027 festival's programme to be published later this autumn.
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